20 Responses to Weekend Project: Ultimate LED Fan Sign (PDF)
Rosco Greens on said:
I just hope never to have this guy in front of me. When he raises his (admittedly cool) sign, you can’t see the field anymore!
Somehow I don’t think the stadium security will let him in with this kind of thing.
@ Rosco Greens – I just love it when the first comment is sorta negative. No, this sign is no larger than any other posterboard sign that you see all over the stadium. It fact, it’s actually smaller than many and It certainly does not block the view of the entire field. And, I did not keep it up the whole game! Only when the team deserved it. Video to follow…
It’s totally smaller than the huge signs I see people holding up at the ballpark! And mostly people who go to games are polite about not blocking views at inappropriate times. Like waiting until the end of an inning before you leave your seat, etc.
@KipKay – Thanks for posting this, this is a really great project. I’m going to make one for a friend of mine (Huge Giants fan, don’t hold it against him
I have a question about the schematic. The two caps on the right hand side are labeled with “connects to NPN”. Do they connect together and to both NPN collectors, or does each go to it’s respective transistor? Also does it connect before the resistor on NPN C ?
@Mike Grundy – I have posted a revised schematic in the PDF. They connect seperately to opposite NPN collectors. Directly to the NPN collector. See if the revised schematic makes more sense. Thanks for the comment.
You know this is not the best method for powering the leds right? – you should have built a parallel array of leds in series. You would only need a resistor for each bank on the array.
@ Anon – I believe the way I built it is the best method. 203 LED’s can vary in their brightness, voltage, and other factors. The resistors make sure that each LED is the same brightness.
Kip – Not really, the voltage drop across leds of the same colour and spec will be about the same. Wiring them all in parallel will just result in higher current draw from the cell. i.e significantly lower operating times.
A better way is still to build series of leds each linked in parallel so you get the best of both worlds.
It’s not just the voltage drop as it is the difference in the LED’s when they are manufactured. Not all LED’s are exactly the same intensity even though they may be rated the same. Also, In this circuit, if one LED shorts out or dies, they rest will stay lit.
I realize this article is a little old now but can anyone provide a more detailed schematic of the flashing circuit cause I got all the parts and i think their the right ones but i cant get the circuit to work. Thanks.
I just hope never to have this guy in front of me. When he raises his (admittedly cool) sign, you can’t see the field anymore!
Somehow I don’t think the stadium security will let him in with this kind of thing.
@ Rosco Greens – I just love it when the first comment is sorta negative. No, this sign is no larger than any other posterboard sign that you see all over the stadium. It fact, it’s actually smaller than many and It certainly does not block the view of the entire field. And, I did not keep it up the whole game! Only when the team deserved it. Video to follow…
sir what type of relay did you use in the schematic??
It’s totally smaller than the huge signs I see people holding up at the ballpark! And mostly people who go to games are polite about not blocking views at inappropriate times. Like waiting until the end of an inning before you leave your seat, etc.
Unfortunately, my team is the Mariners. *sobs*
Awesome project & video, Kip!! It looks beautiful – I’m surprised no one thought of this before.
@KipKay – Thanks for posting this, this is a really great project. I’m going to make one for a friend of mine (Huge Giants fan, don’t hold it against him
I have a question about the schematic. The two caps on the right hand side are labeled with “connects to NPN”. Do they connect together and to both NPN collectors, or does each go to it’s respective transistor? Also does it connect before the resistor on NPN C ?
Thanks!
Mike
@Mike Grundy – I have posted a revised schematic in the PDF. They connect seperately to opposite NPN collectors. Directly to the NPN collector. See if the revised schematic makes more sense. Thanks for the comment.
You know this is not the best method for powering the leds right? – you should have built a parallel array of leds in series. You would only need a resistor for each bank on the array.
http://ledcalculator.net/
@ Anon – I believe the way I built it is the best method. 203 LED’s can vary in their brightness, voltage, and other factors. The resistors make sure that each LED is the same brightness.
Kip – Not really, the voltage drop across leds of the same colour and spec will be about the same. Wiring them all in parallel will just result in higher current draw from the cell. i.e significantly lower operating times.
A better way is still to build series of leds each linked in parallel so you get the best of both worlds.
Maybe try it on your next project
It’s not just the voltage drop as it is the difference in the LED’s when they are manufactured. Not all LED’s are exactly the same intensity even though they may be rated the same. Also, In this circuit, if one LED shorts out or dies, they rest will stay lit.
@KipKay – That makes much more sense now. Thanks for the update!
what kind of relay is used in your project
@paul – The one that was used was an NEC MR62-12FSRY, found in the spare parts bin.
Any substitute for that relay that I can buy on digikey
Im sorry but what’s that type of relay?
@loplop95 – The one that was used was an NEC MR62-12FSRY, found in the spare parts bin.
Is there any cheap website i can order all electronics needed for this project.. like LED’s ,, resistors and the flashing circuit… !!!
So im new as in today new. Can u make a video on how u connectd the wires i get everything but that
I realize this article is a little old now but can anyone provide a more detailed schematic of the flashing circuit cause I got all the parts and i think their the right ones but i cant get the circuit to work. Thanks.
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