Getting a decent weld using flux cored wire (and other welding tips)

Paul writes in with some good tips for new welders... - "I'm on a couple of welding mailing lists, and am a certified welder myself. Recently, a discussion has arisen on one of these lists regarding an inexpensive MIG welder aquired from Lowe's. The individual in question was having difficulty getting a decent weld using flux cored wire, and I wrote up a reply with some useful info on the settings of these machines and some other suggestions I've found to be helpful. I know when I first started with MIG/FCAW, I had no understanding of what to do with the voltage/wire speed controls. Welding being an invaluable maker skill, I thought I might send a copy of my post along to you incase it may be of interest..."
I would not go any lower than a #10, that's about the minimum for arc welding safely. I would highly recommend investing in an auto-darkenning filter, or auto-darkening helmet. Don't cheap out, buy a quality one from a professional supplier. Flash is magnificently unpleasant, and over time can do very real damage to your eyesight. Remember to move slowly and allow a puddle to develop, people tend to want to move the gun as fast as the wire is feeding. Depending on the wire, you'll want your puddle to be between 1/4" and 3/8" wide. Aim the wire towards the leading edge of the puddle, and tilt the gun so that you are 'pushing' the puddle forward. This ensures good coverage of the steel with shielding gas as you go(fluxcore without seperate shielding gas does produce it's own shielding gas as the flux burns).
Now for a brief discussion of MIG/FCAW machine settings:
Remember this. Voltage sets the arc length, wire speed sets the heat. There are three 'transfer modes', basically ways in which molten metal gets from the wire to the puddle. There is short-circuit, globule and spray. Your machine is not capable of the last two, only the first - it doesn't have enough power. Short-circuit transfer is characterized by a loud 'crackling' sound as it welds. If the voltage is too high, and the wire speed too low, the wire will burn back, feed, make contact, burn back, feed.... Over and over again, sputtering and having terrible trouble. Now, if the voltage is too low or the wire speed is too high, you'll get what's called 'stubbing'. Stubbing is where the wire isn't burning off quickly enough, and is actually striking the bottom of the weld pool. This feeling is very noticeable, and you will feel it happening. The settings on the chart are only recommendations, and there are many factors that can affect the optimum position for these settings. So don't hesitate to play around a little. If the wire seems to be burning off, losing the arc, advancing, reestablishing the arc and burning off again, you are deffinitely either running too high a voltage or too low a wire speed.
I have two more recommendations:) Join the AWS. If you join with a two year membership, and I think this promotion is still going on, you can get a copy of the Welding Handbook for $25. This book is worth it's weight in gold, and covers MIG/FCAW with more detail than you would believe. The Welding Journal, published montly by the AWS has very useful information - the most recent issue has a very good primer on TIG welding aluminum, and a thorough discussion of preparing your tungsten electrodes.
My next recommendation: Get a gas shielding kit. Even if you stick with flux core, the wire benefits greatly from having an additional shielding gas. 75/25 argon/CO2 is not at all expensive, and at 15 cubic feet and hour the tank lasts a long time.
Well, that's about it for now - Hope it's helpful.
Paul
Related:
- Primer: Welding by Mister Jalopy. If you need metal stuck together, there is no quicker path than buying a portable 110-volt wire-feed welder. Mr. Jalopy's introduction to welding will help you understand the process and show how you can be a welder by the end of the weekend--and end up with a couple of jigs for the effort. MAKE 03 - Page 158.
- Welding archives - Link.
Posted by Phillip Torrone |
Aug 21, 2006 03:10 PM
DIY Projects, Toolbox |
Permalink
| Comments (7)
Recent Entries
- HOW TO - build a water mortar
- Jake's steamcar project, dashboard redo
- Build your own water quality tester
- MAKE @ Yahoo! Buzz
- Made in Japan Vol. 3
- Super Breakout version allows for competitive or collaborative gaming
- How DIYers just might revive American innovation
- Light-Field camera makes blurry images a thing of the past
- Make a pizza box solar oven
- DIY Security system calls your phone
Comments
Oldest comments listed first.
Make sure that you are wearing a long sleaved drill cotton shirt (or denim jacket), long drill cotton pant (or jeans), welding gauntlets and sturdy (preferably steel toed) shoes/boots, in addition to safety glasses and welding helmet.
I've seen to many people badly burnt from arc radiation (you only get one set of eyes!) and spatter to want to hear about this happening to a maker.
The person using the plasma cutter (in the photo) must be a combination of ignorant (of the dangers) and lucky (to not be burnt already).
Please be careful.
If you are still having trouble make sure you have the polarity set correctly.
The gun should be connected to the + sign for Flux Core Arc welding.
if you use gas, reverse that.
Make sure you read the indications on the machine; they are correct, and polarity is confusing.
This is the single most common mistake in my 12 or so years of welding and helping new welders get set up. Even experienced welders often have the polarity reversed and are confused as to why their welds are all splatter!
Posted by: andys@collegenet.com on August 21, 2006 at 2:48 PM
If you are still having trouble make sure you have the polarity set correctly.
The gun should be connected to the + sign (DCEP) for Flux Core Arc welding.
if you use gas, reverse that(DCEN).
Make sure you read the indications on the machine; they are correct, and polarity is confusing.
This is the single most common mistake in my 12 or so years of welding and helping new welders get set up. Even experienced welders often have the polarity reversed and are confused as to why their welds are all splatter!
Posted by: andys@collegenet.com on August 21, 2006 at 2:51 PM
Subscribe to MAKE Magazine!
Subscribe today, save 42% and get web access to MAKE free. MAKE Digital Edition is available only to subscribers.
$34.95 / 1 year
(4 Quarterly Issues)
Features and more @ MAKE!
MAKE @ The NYC Toy Fair 2008 - Covering DIY!HOW TO - Build the arms of assistance.
MADE in Japan - Part I.
MADE in Japan - Part II.
MADE in Japan - Part III.
Make store - Blinky bug kit - Blink!
Make store - Loud Objects Noise Toy Kit
Makers - MAKE Flickr pool contest. Win cool stuff!
Makers - Join the MAKE Facebook page - Meet other makers.
MAKE on Twitter - Tweet! Tweet!
What you're reading in MAKE - Data!
Add MAKE to your RSS reader - Real simple.

Why advertise on MAKE?
Read what folks are saying about us!
Click here to advertise on MAKE!
Phillip Torrone
Senior Editor
Tel: 707-827-7311
Gareth Branwyn
Robot Maker
Jonah Brucker-Cohen
Researcher
Natalie Zee Drieu
Senior Editor
CRAFT
Becky Stern
Culture jammer
Collin Cunningham
Sound Maker
Marc de Vinck
CNC Maker
Current Podcast
AHAB High Altitude Ballooning - Best of Weekend Projects
mp4|mov|hd|3gp|3g2|itunes This week on Best of Weekend Projects, we look back at part two of the AHAB (High Altitude Balloon Adventure). In this epic Bre & Co. travel to Eastern Washington to launch a GPS and camera enabled balloon...
More...

