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Volkan and Stefan have a clever way to make PCBs (Printed circuit boards), they write - "This page details the modification of an Epson C84 InkJet printer with MISPRO Inks to feed and directly print resist patterns to copper clad printed circuit board stock, ready for etching. Once you can feed the PCB through the printer for etch resist, you can then feed it back through the printer for solder mask and for a component "silk-screen". Toner transfer is probably easier to set up for and may be as fast, but direct ink is more precise, allows solder mask and component printing in the appropriate color, and it appears to be much more precise and repeatable, allowing for finer double sided boards without alignment issues." - Link.
More:
- PCB making - Link.
- HOW TO - Make PCB's with a laser printer - Link.
- PCB creation process - Link.
- HOW TO - Build a PCB router - Link.
- HOW TO - Photo etch circuit boards - Link.
- DIY Ultraviolet light source for PCB exposure - Link.
- HOW TO - Create your own PCB's - Link.
- PCB Creation - Printed Circuit Boards for the Masses - Link.
- Printed Circuit Boards - Primer. Step-by-step instructions for making your own PCBs at home. MAKE 02 - Page 164 (log in).
ok I am impressed, that 1 mil line looks perfect.
For the moment I will stick with toner transfer though, until I need to move to the really small stuff.
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This seems like the natural progression of the flat printing conversion I saw a while ago, but the real innovation here is the ink fixing process. Does anyone have a clue as to what other inks could be used instead of the ones listed in the article? I wonder why this heating process fixes the ink so well?
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This seems like the natural progression of the flat printing conversion I saw a while ago, but the real innovation here is the ink fixing process. Does anyone have a clue as to what other inks could be used instead of the ones listed in the article? I wonder why this heating process fixes the ink so well?
Reply to this comment
This seems like the natural progression of the flat printing conversion I saw a while ago, but the real innovation here is the ink fixing process. Does anyone have a clue as to what other inks could be used instead of the ones listed in the article? I wonder why this heating process fixes the ink so well?
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IS this forum still active? I am looking for more info on this type of thing. The EPSON 1280 is what I want to base mine on. Let me know.
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The forum where you can find Volkan and Stefan to discuss this is my group, Homebrew_PCBs on Yahoogroups.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
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