Make:

Part 2: Making the drive system from a CD spindle

First, cut the center post out of the CD spindle. A pair of wire cutters makes this really easy.

Next, you need some holes for the potentiometer, a switch, and the motor. You can't drill into the spindle case, it will shatter. I heated up an X-Acto blade and just pushed it through while twisting it until I thought it was the right size. The switch and potentiometer go anywhere on the side of the spindle and the motor will be attached to the top.

I had this potentiometer in my parts bin. I'm not sure where it came from, but it had some solder on it, so it must have been used for another project at some point. These are getting harder to come by, so if you can't salvage one, just pick one up from an electronics store for about a $1.

Solder (1) 4" piece of wire to either the eight or left tab, and another to the center tab.

Now you can attach the potentiometer to the case. I added nice little knob, but you could make one out of wood, or just turn the metal post of the potentiometer.

Now its time for the switch. Again Solder (1) 4" piece of wire to either the right or left tab, and another 4" wire to the center tab.

Now attach the switch to the cylinder.

Finally the motor needs some wires. Solder (1) 4" piece of wire to both tabs of the motor. Next, add a dab of hot glue to the motor and put in the hole you made in the top of the CD spindle case. Next, add a healthy amount of epoxy to the motor. It is going to take a bit of abuse and you want to make sure it stays. My epoxy needed 24 hours to cure so at this point you can take a break and start again tomorrow. You can add a scrap piece of plastic to the top for added support. I used a piece from the original fan.

Part 3: Connecting it all up

Now it's time to wire it all up. Start by adding a bit of hot glue to the battery holder and placing it on the base of the CD spindle. Later I found out that (2) AA batteries made the motor spin too fast, so I have to make a modification so it ran on (1) AA battery. I could use another battery holder, but why? Just solder a wire on the spring where the second battery was, and another wire on the (-) side of the battery terminal. The fun of this project is the hodgepodge of parts that are scavenged!

Lets start soldering. As you can see my wires are all different colors. That is because, once again, they are all recycled. I purposely used yellow heat-shrink tubing to make it even more interesting to look at through the clear case.

No need to worry about polarity, it really doesn't matter which way the motor spins. Solder (1) battery wire to (1) of the switch wires. Next, solder the other switch wire to (1) of the motor wires. Next solder the remaining battery wire to (1) of the potentiometer wires and the remaining potentiometer wire to the last motor wire. Got it? Good!

Flip the switch and see if it runs. You can adjust the speed from the potentiometer. Also, If it spins the wrong way, just switch the battery wires.

Part 4: making the Zoetrope cylinder

Start by downloading the zoetrope_blank.pdf, and zoetrope_ball.pdf. Next, print them out and draw your animation in the empty boxes, or use the "red ball" version. Try something simple at first.

After you draw your animation, you need to glue your printout to the black backing paper to make it more rigid.

Once the glue is dry, cut out the white rectangles. These will be the viewing holes in the Zoetrope.

Now flip the printout over and add a long strip of tape to the bottom edge. Have the tape hang over the entire bottom edge about 1/4 inch. Then cut the tape about every 1/2 inch. This will allow the tape to bend under the CD easier.

Now stand the CD on the edge of the paper and on the tape. Roll the CD and press the tabs of tape on the CD. When you are done, add a tape at the seam. My CD was a bit smaller than the standard 4.75 inch diameter. If it is, just cut the excess. It will not make a difference.

Almost done.

Part 4: Attaching the cylinder & trying it out

Take a spare CD and draw trace the center circle onto an eraser.

Cut out the erase slightly larger than the traced circle and add a center hole.

Push the eraser into the center of the Zoetrope cylinder and attach it to the motor.


You're all done! Now print the blank template again, but this time cut the bottom off and place it inside your new Zoetrope. You can have a whole set of animations to show your friends.

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I've heard the oft repeated "be careful when using high voltage parts from t.v.'s and computers". Um. Manufactures have used bleed resistors for years for this very reason. I've yet to come across any HV cap that still contained a charge even after 10 minutes.

Posted by: Marc de Vinck on August 6, 2008 at 5:50 AM

That's good to know, thanks!

However, how long have they done this, and how old are some of the things people rip apart. Better safe than sorry. I love to find things from the 40's and 50's. They have the coolest knobs and panels. I have had a few "mishaps".......so once again, be careful!

I think that the vacuum tube in a tv is what they are most concerned about, since they can hold a pretty large charge at a high voltage for a long time. Of all the CRTs I have messed with, only one had what I believe was a bleed resistor associated with the tube.

I handle all CRT's as though they are live bombs, anyway. Don't wanna get bit by the 2nd anode snap, which would probably lead to dropping the damn thing, which would probably lead to the glass breaking, etc.

As for the other parts, I was taught (back in the days when radios had those little glass bottles that glowed orange in them)that there is a term for people who assume that the bleeder resistor never opens:
Dead.

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