CupCake CNC build, part 6: Building the enclosure

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It's finally time to build the enclosure! The wax finish is fully cured, buffed out, and all the parts are ready for assembly. So, lets get on with the build.

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The first step is adding the bearing brackets to the middle panel. These screw on the bottom of the middle layer with the included M3 nuts and bolts.

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One in each corner, and... Done! Easy.

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Now it's time to join the front and back panel to the middle. Again, using the M3 nuts and bolts. Be sure to make the back panel face inwards. The laser etching should be visible when looking into the CupCake CNC machine. Once completed, add the left, right, top, and bottom in the same manner.

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Now we need to assemble the Z-stage rods. It's easy, but there's some important prep work to do first. The threaded rod has some metal "bits" in the threads that need to be removed.

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The easiest method is to put some tape on one end of the threaded rod and insert it into an electric drill. Next, add a little oil, and while slowing turning the rod, use a paper towel to clean out all the debris. Done!

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Now it's time to assemble the Z-stage threaded rods. First you add (1) 8mm nut onto the threaded rod, followed by (1) 608 bearing, and another 8mm nut. Use (2) wrenches to tighten the bearing onto the threaded rod.

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Next, add another 8mm nut on the other end. This one is used to hold the Z-stage in place. It should be screwed down a few inches to stay out of the way. Then you can add another bearing sandwich like you did on the other end. Note: Do not tighten them up yet!

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Next, place the Z-stage threaded rod into the four holes in the top of the enclosure and into the holes in the "middle" layer.

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You need to adjust the top-bearing sandwich so that the bearing sits just at, or slightly below, the top layer of the CupCake CNC. It is very important that the bearing sits flush! Double and triple check it!

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Once all the bearings sit flush, you can add the Z -stage brackets. Use (1) screw on each cover until you know there is no play, or any friction, on all the threaded rods.


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When it's perfect, go ahead and add the rest of the screws.

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Next up is adding the power supply. Unfortunately, it didn't fit the laser-cut opening. I had to make the opening slightly larger to accommodate the power switch and plug. Start by cutting a section of wood out from around the switch area. You can eyeball the exact amount fairly easily.

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Also, you will need to cut a small notch out of the side to allow more room for the plug. Place the power supply behind and mark the area with a pencil. Then, using a craft knife, carve a small semi circle.

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Once those modifications are made, attach the power supply to the laser-cut plywood. Next, attach the entire assembly to the enclosure using the same bolt and screw method used on all the other panels.

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Now, feed the cables through the opening on the right hand side of the enclosure.

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Done! The enclosure is complete and ready for some electronics. Speaking of which, let's go ahead and add some stepper motors while we're at it!

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First, we will install the X-axis stepper motor. Start by attaching one of the small silver pulleys to the stepper motors shaft. The shaft of the motor should be flush with the top of the pulley. Tighten down the setscrew and you are ready to install it into the enclosure.

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Now you can mount the X-axis stepper motor to the middle section of the enclosure with the (4) shorter M3 bolts. The bolts thread right into the stepper motor. Easy!

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Next up, it's time to install the Z-stage stepper motor. This stepper used the black pulley from the kit. Note: Do not tighten this pulley yet. You may need to adjust the height a bit in the next step.

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Now we can go ahead and add all the pulleys to the Z-axis threaded rods. These pulleys are put on upside-down compared to the one installed on the stepper motor.

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Also, you can add the tensioning pulleys that were made in part 5 of this build series. They are installed on each side of the stepper and keep the correct tension on the belt. Finally, add the belt and adjust the tension. It should be tight, but not too tight. I know that seems a bit vague, but you'll know when it's right.

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The final step is to make sure the height of all the pulleys is correct. As you can see in the image above, the belt sits perfectly inline with the pulleys, especially the one mounted to the stepper motor. Adjust all the pulleys into alignment, and then tighten all the set screws.

And, DONE! We're finished building the enclosure. Next up in the series: Building the Y-stage.

Ask questions! Do you want to see a better picture of a particular part, a different camera angle, a video perhaps? Maybe you have a suggestion for a cool mod or hack? Let me know in the comments. I'll try to answer them as best as I can. Thanks!

Want to know when my next build entry is done? Follow me on Twitter @devinck!

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Comments

Oldest comments listed first.

Posted by: David Hall on January 6, 2010 at 5:30 PM

Pulley for z axis stepper motor

Very nice set of instructions!

The pulley for the z axis steeper motor will not slide on. I do not want to force it. I tried some WD-40 but no luck. I can press the pulley on for about 2-3 mm and then it will go no further.

Ideas?

Dave


Posted by: Marc de Vinck on January 6, 2010 at 6:26 PM

Thanks!

Yes, the pulley is really tight...REALLY tight! First, make sure the set screw is completely out, next, open up the hole on the pulley a bit with some fine sand paper wrapped on a wooden dowel or small file. Don't do it too much! The tolerance on the pulley and stepper isn't critical....but it should be "sloppy". Sand it down just a bit and try it again.

Also, try pressing the pulley on with even pressure. Maybe try pressing the stepper onto the pulley (i.e. put the pulley on a flat surface and press the stepper onto it)


Posted by: Rainor on January 8, 2010 at 10:52 AM

Flat Washers

Hello - I was thinking that due to the softness of the wood and the relative size of the M-Bolts, shouldn't the kit come with flat washers?

Over time the motors or other stress points might losen up as the heads pull-through the plywood. I'm thinking of the 4 bolts in the 2nd to last photo IMG9776.JPG

Nice looking project so far! I look forward to the next part :-)


Posted by: Marc de Vinck on January 8, 2010 at 1:40 PM

That's a good point. I have the same concerns....and adding some additional washers is a great idea. Only time will tell.

Next post is going up tomorrow!


Posted by: cdesfablab on February 5, 2010 at 10:27 AM

flange button head screws

We thought the same thing about the cap head screws getting buried so we used M3x16 flange button head socket head screws wherever possible. Not only does this address the compression issue, but it makes for a cleaner aesthetic overall. Much less trouble than messing with ~150 little washers. Now to find square nuts for the T joints on the next build.

http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20080923/92137A258L.GIF


Posted by: zgrinch on January 9, 2010 at 10:23 AM

Just discovered MAKE

Like the title says, I just discovered Make about a month or so ago. This is the most interesting site on the net. The possibilities are endless. I found your build irresistable and you now have a fan as I cannot wait for the next post. It is my hope that Make will start a beginners area for those of us who have soooo much to catch up on. I get almost all of what is done on this site with the exception of the programmming, which really isn't applicable to this series. Anyway, great work, great build, cannot wait to see what you MAKE first with this machine, have you given it any thought? Later Zgrinch


Posted by: john on January 10, 2010 at 6:57 PM

z axis tensioning pullies

I'd appreciate a photo of the nut/washer order that you used for the z axis tensioning pullies.
Cheers!


Posted by: Maker Shed on January 10, 2010 at 7:05 PM

Sure, I have to take it apart to shoot it...but I will reply here, and post a link to my flickr photo set.


Posted by: Maker Shed on January 10, 2010 at 8:47 PM

OK, no pics yet, but I juts checked. It has 2 nuts under the pulley, and another to secure it to the CupCake CNC....that's it. I'll take a pic, but that should help for now.


Posted by: Gaffetape on January 10, 2010 at 9:10 PM

Thanks

That will help for now indeed. Thanks!


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