Hobbyist electronics projects need robust, reliable power supplies for prototyping and testing. I learned how to build this circuit from the Basic Analog Circuits class at ITP taught by Eric Rosenthal, but took it several steps further in building a solid enclosure and integrating a voltage meter. Now it lives on my desk, ready to power most small projects I’m working on.
You’ll see example shots of point-to-point wiring of components to perfboard while following a schematic for this power supply. A wood enclosure is built, and Adafruit’s Mini Volt Meter, Vout posts, and a potentiometer are mounted in the final product.
Parts List:
- One 3×5" perfboard
- LM317 variable voltage regulator
- BR805D Bridge Rectifier
- Heat Sink
- 120 VAC to 24 VDC transformer (mine is part number LP-575)
- Power cable
- Two 1000 microfarad capacitors
- One 0.1 microfarad capacitor
- One 1 microfarad capacitor
- One 100 ohm resistor
- One 5k ohm variable resistor
- One 1N4002 diode
- 1/2" plywood
- 1/8" wood or MDF
- six half inch wood screws
- 8 1/2" long x 1/8" wide nuts and bolts
- Plastic knob
- Mini volt meter from Adafruit Industries
Steps
Step #1:
Next



- Solder the positive and negative (red and black) leads from the transformer to the power cable. Twist the threaded wires together and use a liberal amount of solder, completely covering all connections. Finish with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape.
- Apply thermal compound to LM317 and screw into heat sink.
- Wire all components to the perfboard. There are a couple of ways to go about this: some find it's easier to put all the components into the holes first and bend the wires so they stay in place, then solder everything together. I like to go step by step, following each part of the schematic individually to verify that I have every connection correct.
- You'll be using point-to-point wiring on the back of the perfboard. Make sure that all your connections are separated, and use insulated wires if you have to cross over any connections you've already made.
- Make sure to solder leads onto your potentiometer for easy mounting to the enclosure later on. Also be sure to short out the middle pin to an adjacent pin on the pot, so it functions as a variable resistor and not a voltage divider.
- Solder long leads to two header pins on your positive and negative output for easy mounting to the enclosure later on.














It was supplied by my institution, probably bought in bulk. But you can use any transformer that has similar specs – judging from a recent user comment you’d probably want to go with one that’s lower amperage so you don’t accidentally burn out the LM317.
Sorry I’m not exactly sure what you mean…did you find different part numbers from JameCo? What do you wish to edit?
I think you could test it with a 9 volt to see if the LM317 is doing its job – though someone may need to verify this for me…
I mean just adding links to Jameco products
(Note I am not affiliated with Jameco. I just opened their catalog first.)
This should be fine, BUT you will not be able to get a full 24v.
Just 1.5v-9v about.
Great to hear you’ve improved upon the original design! Once you’re finished please post links to photos, or put them in the Makezine flickr pool.
- The best place for a fuse is probably right after the bridge rectifier on the positive lead, before it goes through the rest of the circuit.
Did you ever find the Jameco part numbers? I can’t find a suitable transformer but I’m not sure if I’m looking correctly
go here:
@John – You can still use the transformer mentioned in the project (Jameco Part no. 112513) because it is rated for both primary voltages. Here’s from the datasheet:
Primary Voltage: 115/230VAC @ 50-60Hz
Secondary Voltage: 24VAC @ 2A
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