Make: Projects
Better Nerf Gun
Build a metal foam-dart gun that blows away store-bought plastic models.
Like most geek-filled offices, at my workplace we have several Nerf guns and similar toy weapons floating about. Not impressed with the performance of my colleague Lester’s Nerf Maverick, a mainstay of Nerf’s suction-cup-dart-firing “N-Strike” series, I decided to build a better Nerf gun myself.
Here’s the result: a simple weapon, single shot only, but with much greater range and accuracy than the standard toys. Let your indoor combat foes tremble; with a little practice, one shot is all you need.
I made the pistol from PVC pipe, aluminum extrusion, and aluminum tubing, with wood for the grip and various pieces of metal and plastic, mostly from my junk box — and you can easily adapt the design to use what you have in yours. A sliding trigger and telescoping plunger keep the pistol short and compact. You’ll need a small metal lathe to machine some of the parts, but as there’s nothing too critical in the design, this is a nice project to hone your skills.
Steps
Step #1: Barrel, Body, and End Cap
Next



- I made this design up as I went along, without working out the dimensions ahead of time. You can do the same, or download templates from my build at http://makeprojects.com/v/29.
- For the body, cut a length of 1¼" PVC pipe with a hacksaw.
- From the cutting board, cut 2 plastic centering rings to hold the barrel. I finished them on a lathe and secured each one into the body using 3 screws.
- Cutting boards are a good source of plastic for projects — it’s cheaper and easier to go to a supermarket than buy from an industrial plastics supplier.
- Cut the barrel out of 1" metal tube. It can be any length over 70mm (the length of a Nerf dart), and can protrude any amount from the body, depending on the aesthetics you want.
- Machine 2 grooves into the barrel so that C-clips can hold it between the rings. Leave room for a rubber O-ring against the rear ring. The clips prevent the barrel from sliding, and the rubber ring keeps it from rattling or rotating.
- The Nerf dart’s suction-cup tip is a bit wider than its shaft, so the plastic sleeve stops 20mm short of the barrel’s end. This lets the dart sit inside the barrel completely when the gun is cocked, with no friction against the barrel.
Conclusion
Using the pistol is simple. You pull back on the ring on the end of the plunger until the catch wire hooks onto the plunger catch. Then simply push the telescoping part of the plunger back into the pistol. (With a non-telescoping plunger, the pistol would have to be longer and wouldn’t be as neat when cocked.) You’re ready to fire!
I’ve found that when fired over a range of 8–10 meters (26–33 feet), the darts are fairly accurate and travel fairly flat. At farther distances, you need to start lifting the barrel to get more of a lob trajectory on the darts.
What else could be done? You can paint the pistol any way you want, although I would stay away from black, so it isn’t mistaken for a real weapon. Most parts of the pistol can be modified to suit your own particular tastes. The grip can be changed, the barrel length modified. Adding a stronger main spring is probably the best way to increase the range. You could also add some kind of sights — perhaps even a laser sight from a cheap laser pointer, for that high-tech touch.
The next version I’m planning is a Nerf-firing replica of a “real” prop weapon. Perhaps a stormtrooper’s blaster from Star Wars or a pistol from Blake’s 7?
'''This project first appeared in MAKE Volume 29, pages 112-122.

















































Try to match it to this table (C-856).
http://www.doitbest.com/Door+springs-Century+Spring+Corp-model-C-550-doitbest-sku-749186.dib
My local HW store has ship to store free.
No. C-500: 5/32″ x 9/16″ x .023″
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No. C-874: 1-3/8″ x 6″ x .120″
No. C-878: 5/8″ x 9″ x .080″
No. C-892: 1-1/8″ x 7″ x .162″
Hi Tim,
There is a link and product number in the Parts list:
item #364 from Century Spring (http://www.centuryspring.com)
Hi Tim, another spring that may work (but probably needs cutting down) is a recoil spring from an AR-15/M-16 rifle. Not so easy to come by here in NZ but should be available in the states easily enough.
Simon
Got it, Tim — I didn’t realize that! Thanks for pointing it out.
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