I love making my own musical instruments. Nothing beats the feeling of playing your own tunes on an instrument you made yourself. While the best instruments are made by skilled craftspeople with high-quality materials, it can be very rewarding to craft an instrument with simple components at hand.
A few years ago I got interested in the idea of making my own cigar box ukulele. I had a nice box and the wood to make the neck but I needed a lot of other parts, like frets and a slotted fretboard and tuners and strings, that I had to order and wait for them to arrive. But I wanted it done right then! So while I waited, I thought about how those parts functioned and what I could substitute.
I remembered someone using toothpicks for frets on cigar box guitars, and while I was wary of steel strings cutting into the wooden frets, I thought a ukulele’s nylon strings should be fine. Toothpicks for frets: check.
I’d also seen a lot of instruments built with cookie tins for the body, so I headed to the local resale shop to look for one. No tins, but what I did find was even better. Nice, rigid aluminum cake pans, in two sizes. “Resophonic instruments use aluminum cones, don’t they?” I thought. Cake pans for the body: check.
I brought my treasures home and found a nice piece of hardwood for the neck. Luckily, I had a set of tuners and strings on hand. I got to work and a few days later, I had a cake pan uke!
The name? Early in ukulele history, Alvin D. Keech introduced a banjo ukulele that eventually got the name banjolele. Looking like it does, it seemed natural to call my instrument a Cake Pan-jolele, or Panjolele for short.
Materials
From a hardware store:
- Hardwood lumber, 1×2 nominal, 36″ length Actual size is ¾”×1½”. Choose oak, maple, poplar, or other hardwood, as straight and as knot-free as possible.
- Wood screws, #6×1¼”, Phillips head (3)
- Wood glue
- Spray lacquer or polyurethane, clear (1 can)
- Sheet metal screw, 2″, pan head
From a resale shop or department store:
- Cake pans, aluminum or steel, 2″ deep: 9″ diameter (1) and 8″ diameter (1) — Cake pans have sides at right angles to the bottom, and are deeper than pie pans. Steel is OK, but rigid aluminum pans are easier to cut and have a better sound.
From a music store:
- Ukulele friction tuners (set of 4) — I’m using a basic $13 set, item #UP26 from Elderly Instruments (elderly.com), but for just $15 you can get better quality tuners, Elderly #GUKNW.
- Ukulele strings, concert scale length (set of 4) — I’m using a basic $3 set of Hilo black nylon strings, Elderly #HCU. For $5, Aquila’s Nylgut set, Elderly #ANCR, has the sound of old-fashioned gut strings.
From a grocery store:
- Square wooden toothpicks (20) — You can also get these from Lego Education (legoeducation.us), item #W751742.
Tools
- Pencil
- Ruler with e” marks
- Marking pen, fine tip
- Square, adjustable
- Handsaw or power miter saw
- Sanding block and sandpaper — in various grits
- Drill or drill press
- Drill bits: 5″, 1″, 6″, 2″, and #6 countersinking bit
- Screwdriver, Phillips head
- Spring clamps (2 or more)
- Hacksaw with fine-tooth blade
- Rotary tool with cut-off wheel — such as a Dremel
- Needle files including a triangular file
- Rasp or Surform plane/rasp
- Flush nippers, end cutters, toenail clippers, or a utility knife
MAKE Volume 33 features our special Software for Makers section covering apps for circuit board design, 3D design and printing, microcontrollers, and programming for kids. Also, meet our new Arduino-powered Rovera robot and get started with Raspberry Pi. As usual, you’ll also find fascinating makers inside, like the maniacs on our cover, the hackers behind the popular Power Racing Series events at Maker Faire.
Try your hand at 22 great DIY projects, like the Optical Tremolo guitar effects box, "Panjolele" cake-pan ukelele, Wii Nunchuk Mouse, CNC joinery tricks, treat-dispensing cat scratching post, laser-cut flexing wooden books, sake brewing, growing incredibly hot “ghost chili” peppers, and much more.
On newsstands now, by subscription, or available in the Maker Shed
Steps
Step #1: Prepare the neck and brace.
Next


- Using a power or hand miter saw, cut 2 lengths from the 1×2 board: 13-3/4" for the neck and 10-1/2" for the brace. Save the leftover piece for other parts.
- Decide which side will be the fretted (top) side of the neck, and use a sanding block to sand it flat and smooth. Start with coarser grits and work up to finer grits.































































Chester’s instruments are amazing! Great quality and good sound.
Thanks Erin!
For anyone wanting to try this project out, feel free to leave notes or questions here and I’ll try my best to answer them.
I have one little adjustment: in Step 2b the two holes are shown 1 1/4″ away from the edge. This puts them a little too close to the end of the neck. I’d recommend changing that dimension to 1 1/8″ or 1″.
Have fun!
What happened to the instructions for the panjolele? I need them to finnish mine.
Buddy,
I think that you’ll be able to see the whole project here someday, but only after the issue is no longer being sold. Get yourself a copy and help support the magazine who can then pay authors like me to write articles like this.
In the meantime, if you have any questions let me know and I’ll do my best to help you.
Chester
Hi Buddy, sorry for the delay! Some of our most recent projects are late making the transition to our new projects site. We’ll try to get this back up as soon as we can. Hope your panjolele’s coming along well!
Thanks. I panickedtoo soon, I just got a subscription to the hard copy and digital eddition and discovered that I have the article.
Just made my own panjolele this weekend. Fairly easy build, but I couldn’t find the right friction tuners at Guitar Center. I ended up buying guitar 6-string nylon tuners and trimming them down to 4 strings with my dremel cutting wheel. I also needed to make the head wider and angle it back, so I glued 6 pieces of wood together and then sanded them down into the shape I wanted with a belt sander turned upside-down and clamped to my workbench. The end result looks a little different, but that’s what it’s all about, right?
That’s the spirit! Like I said in the article: sometimes you just have to make do with what you have.
I hope that you’re having fun playing it!
Chester
Finished mine a few weeks ago I found the pegs at Ebay at http://www.ebay.com/itm/12pcs-Ukulele-Tuning-Peg-Pin-Machine-Tuners-New-Thin-Button-Friction-Style-/151008478467?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2328ce8503.
I started to learn to play the ukulele a few months ago and decided to make this project just for fun. I LOVE IT!! I made one for under $20 and it sounds better than my ‘normal’ ukuleles. Everyone who has seen it loves it and in the hands of a couple professional musicians I know who have picked mine up, it sounds amazing! (I can only dream of playing it that well).
I already have ideas for my next one but I would like to make a tenor model. Since I see that you have already made one, Is there any way you might be willing to share the measurements for the fret board??? I have no idea how to even begin to figure that out on my own.
Thanks for sharing this to begin with and I’ll be sure to make whatever you come up with next, providing I can put down my panjolele long enough.
John,
I’m so glad that you’re loving your panjo! For me the great thing about the uke is that it’s pretty easy to get started playing and it’s so much fun that you want to play more. And that’s the quickest way to get better.
Now that you have the basic model down, it’s very easy to make different scale lengths. Assuming that you’ll be using the same size pans, the brace will be the same length and the bridge in the same location. This project has a 15 1/2 in. scale length (concert). To make a tenor scale length add 2 inches to the neck length (soprano would be 2 inches less.) There are a ton of scale length calculators on the web where you can input the scale length and number of fret positions desired. Here’s one: http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator
Most of the time, I use a freeware program called wfret that allows you to print out a template of the fret positions and tape that to the top of the neck to mark them out. I can’t find the original source right now, but there are plenty of copies around.
Good luck on your next project!
Chester
Do you have a link to a video? I’d like to hear how it sounds.
Marie,
Goli just put up a great blog post today that includes two videos of me playing one. Scroll down a little on this page:
http://blog.makezine.com/2013/05/09/how-to-the-panjolele-cake-pan-ukulele/
Hope you like the sound!
Chester
Looks awesome… just got the parts to make it.
Any chance you could upload the vid on youtube? Vimeo really doesn’t work.
Possibly next week….my upload speed is terrible and a video this size takes forever, but I’ll put it on my list of things to do after I complete a few deadlines.
Chester
my 2″ sheet metal screw doesn’t reach past the pan, Should I pick up a 2.25″ screw?
Yes, get whatever length you need so that the screw goes at least 1/2″ into the brace. (Some cake pans are deeper than others, so you’ll need a longer screw for these.)
Chester
Thanks Chester. Just bought materials and i am about to start fabrication. You mentioned adjusting a measurement in step 2b. These electronic steps don’t show a 2b but I am assuming you are talking about step three and the tuning key holes.
Are you saying that all of the tuning key holes should be 1/4″ farther away from the the nut?
Sean,
Sorry for the confusion…here on the web, the measurement is in step 4.
If you look at the second picture, you’ll see the 1 1/4″ measurement. That puts those holes only 1/4″ away from the end of the neck on the other side. While it’s OK to do it this way, I’d feel better if that measurement was 1″ or 1 1/8″.
Let me know if that doesn’t make sense.
Chester
Ah! That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the plans and clarification.
What a cool project. I just ordered/found the parts.
One question comes to mind about the fitment of the 8″ pan. It does not appear to be attached to the brace. Is it loose? Does it wobble when you play?
Thanks for the awesome article.
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