Tired of all those LCD TVs everywhere? Want a break from advertisements while you’re trying to eat? Want to zap screens from across the street? The TV-B-Gone kit is just what you need. With just a simple click of the button you can turn off any TV from 100′s of feet away. Zap!
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Step #1: Parts Check!
Next
- On the first slide for this guide, you will find a list of the supplied parts to build this kit.
- Make sure you have all of the required parts. If you are missing any parts, check under your chair!
Step #2: Insert the Tactile Switch
Next
- The tactile switch should be soldered into the S1 spot.
- It does not matter which way you put it in.
- Once it is flush with the board, turn it over and solder the connection.
Step #3: Brown-Black-Red Resistor
Next
- Insert one of the Brown-Black-Red Resistors into the R5 position.
- It does not matter which way you put the resistor in.
- Turn the board over and solder the leads.
Step #4: Tips!
Next
- To make sure the leads stay in when you turn the board over, bend the leads outwards a little bit after inserting them into the PCB.
- To ensure that there are no shorts, be sure to clip the leads of the resistors after they are soldered. Do this for all the components after soldering.
Step #5: Insert the Small Green LED at D5
Next
- LEDs have one longer lead and one shorter lead. The longer lead is the positive lead, and the shorter one is the negative lead.
- Insert the longer lead into the hole marked with the (+) sign, and the shorter lead (-) goes into the other hole on the PCB.
- Turn the board over, and solder the LED in.
Step #6: Insert the Yellow Capacitor
Next
- The small yellow .1uF capacitor (marked 104) is to be inserted into C1.
- This capacitor is not polarized, so it doesn't matter which direction you put it in. Push it through, bend the leads, and solder.
Step #7: Insert the Blue Ceramic Oscillator
Next
- The ceramic oscillator should be inserted into X1 on the circuit board.
- The direction of insertion for this component doesn't matter.
- Turn it over, and solder it in.
Step #8: Insert the 8-PIN IC Socket
Next
- The 8-Pin Socket must be inserted into the PCB by matching the silkscreened 'notch' printed on the circuit board to the 'notch' on the socket.
- Make sure the socket is flush with the board, turn it over and solder it in.
Step #9: Attaching the Battery Holder
Next
- Begin by trimming the leads on the battery holder until there is only about a quarter of the wire remaining.
- Strip the ends of the wires so there is about about 1/4 " exposed.
- The red wire is inserted into the positive (+) hole, the black wire is inserted into the negative (-) hole in the PCB.
- Turn the board over and solder it in place.
- To test, put the chip in the 8-Pin socket, add two AA batteries, and your LED light should be blinking. The chip should be inserted with the dot on the IC facing the notched end of the 8-Pin socket. Before moving on, remove the batteries from the holder.
Step #10: Inserting the Next Resistor
Next
- In position R1, insert the other Brown-Black-Red Resistor. Like before, the orientation of the resistor on the PCB does not matter.
- Turn the board over and solder it in.
Step #11: Inserting the 220uF Capacitor
Next
- The blue capacitor has a longer lead, which is positive (+), and the shorter lead is the negative (-).
- Insert this capacitor into C2, where the longer lead is inserted into the hole marked with a (+).
- Turn the board over, and solder the leads in.
Step #12: Insert the first transistor.
Next
- The transistor marked 2907 should be inserted into Q5.
- The flat end should be facing outward on the PCB, matching the silkscreen. Push the transistor through the hole, and solder the leads in.
Step #13: Inserting the 4 Transistors
Next
- Included in the kit are four NPN (2N2222) transistors. They are soldered into Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4.
- Insert each transistor matching the silkscreen on the PCB.
- Turn the board over, and solder the joints. Be sure to snip the leads to avoid anything shorting out.
Step #14: Inserting the LEDs
Next
- Each IR LED has a longer lead and a smaller lead. The longer lead is the positive (+)
- You will want the LEDs to face forward, so leave some room when you insert the LED into the PCB. (see pictures for LED orientation)
- The two 'clear' LEDs go on the outside of the PCB, and the two 'blue' LEDs go on the inside as pictured.
- After you solder the LEDs in, bend them forward.
Step #15: Finished!
- Now add two fresh AA batteries you're good to go! Keep in mind that the LED will blink continously if your batteries are low.
- All done! Take this anywhere you need to zap a TV. Just point and press!
- After hitting the button, the TV-B-Gone will continue to transmit for around 2 minutes, sending all the codes stored in the chip.
- Enjoy!
Davey – It’s an ATtiny85V-10-PU
You can download the firmware here — http://www.ladyada.net/make/tvbgone/download.html
Can you send some pictures of the board?
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